En la entrada de la ciudad perdida de los Incas
Por fin ha llegado el momento más esperado.
Después de una emocionante semana recorriendo la Costa Oeste del Perú, ascender el Volcán Misti (5.150 m.) y pernoctar en la isla de Amantaní en el Lago Titicaca, es hora de iniciar el camino que más he soñado y deseado: el legendario Camino del Inca para así descubrir la mítica ciudad de Machupicchu.
Parto de Cuzco (el ombligo del mundo) desde la estación de ferrocarriles de San Pedro, en un tren de cenefas rojas y amarillas que me dejará en el kilómetro 88. Voy acompañado de 6 personas más, que entre unas cosas y otras he conocido en la misma estación.
La emoción recorre todas mis venas y hace sentirme acelerado y nervioso, pues jamás me hubiera imaginado ser protagonista rememorando el camino hacia la ciudad Sagrada de los Incas.
Desde que un día el azar quiso que ojeara un libro que hablaba de esta grandiosa civilización, de sus logros y hazañas, de sus guerras y conquistas, me he sentido fascinado y atraído.
Aquello que imaginé leyendo esas páginas, se estaba haciendo realidad: redescubrir para mis sentidos la más bella y hermosa de las ciudades de piedra del Nuevo Mundo.
Sobre el río Urubamba doy los primeros pasos que un día recorrieron antiguos mensajeros y soldados del aquel vasto imperio.
Esta primera jornada, larga y dura, me sitúa a los pies del pico Wayllabamba (2.743 m.). Allí un espectacular paisaje de cumbres nevadas se detiene para observar ese extraño “rosario de hombrecillos multicolores” que no paran de caminar, para preguntarse: ¿ Qué ocultas razones les habrán llevado a recorrer estos intrincados senderos, de los que solo sudor y penas sacaran para sí mismos…?
Al día siguiente la subida hacia el collado de Wariwalisca (4.200 m.) se convierte en un calvario, pero he de subir para lograr adivinar qué se divisa desde allá arriba.
El campamento más próximo (Río Pacamayo), será el lugar idóneo donde recuperar el físico que me he dejado en estos dos primeros días y así tomarme el resto de la jornada para gozar del paisaje y sentir su brisa, los ruidos, ver las nubes, los rincones que labra el agua que me dan de beber…
El tercer día el ambiente se torna y cambia de color. Los bosques visten las laderas (Ceja de la Selva) y la neblina corre ligera rozando las copas de los árboles que a veces llegan a cubrir el sendero, que de piedras y escalones van quebrando mis rodillas.
Profundos y hermosos valles ocultan ruinas de antiguas ciudadelas y fortalezas aptas para ser visitadas que incitan a imaginar la vida en ellas: sus susurros, gritos, sus risas, sus amores e infidelidades… Las piedras te cuentan todo si plácidamente te detienes y las sabes escuchar.
Hoy hay que llegar pronto a Wiñaywayna (última zona de acampada) ya que estará como dicen, abarrotado de sufridos guías cargados como mulas, excursiones, tumbonas y bronceadores, y de personajes farándulos y anónimos a quienes solo les empuja lo superficial y el ansia del éxito con el mínimo esfuerzo y a cualquier precio.
En este ambiente buscamos el rincón más retirado de la masa, pues será el último descanso antes de lograr alcanzar el sueño que he venido persiguiendo.
Pero esta noche no quiere ser noche porque la vigila la luna que acompaña y el cielo estrellado de mil luces brillantes la desvela para que no duerma. Ahora tengo un instante más antes de que mis ojos, que quieren seguir observando, se cierren.
Amanece (4º día). Cuatro o cinco horas me separan de la imagen más veces contemplada y con más ganas que nunca comienzo a mover las piernas. Por fin, tras subidas y bajadas de escaleras labradas por aquellas manos de antaño, veo por primera vez la Ciudad Perdida a los pies del Huaynapicchu (2.743 m.), aquella que jamás lograrían alcanzar los soldados españoles. Aún no me lo puedo creer.
Pronto me excuso para ir cuanto antes a perderme entre sus muros, sus templos y calles, por que en algún rincón tranquilo me sentaré nuevamente a escuchar viejas historias y fábulas de llantos y alegrías.
Historias que cuentan las viejas piedras de Machupicchu.
Texto y fotos: Balti Felguera Ballesteros (relato para Altaïr año 2000)
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